A few days ago I cast on Verokia again, this time with larger needles and thread (yes, size 20 thread and size 0 needles count as larger this time). The lighter color also helped, as did the method of increase used. I decided all the make 3's would be knit1, yo, knit1, and all the make 4's would be (knit1, yo)2x. Way easier, and way faster, than alternating knits and purls in the same stitch. Especially since the big increases start on round 1 of the chart!
I've knitted through round 36 so far. There is errata for this pattern, but I think I'm going to post it all at once when I'm done.